Friday, July 17, 2009

Rotie Cellars (WWSR 2009)

What follows is an excerpt from the 2009 Walla Walla Spring Release Weekend Report. Download the full report here (Note: Opens .pdf).

Sean Boyd is up to something special at his new winery, Rotie Cellars. The winery focuses on Rhone-style blends. The Northern Blend is 97% Syrah co-fermented with 3% Viognier. The Southern Blend is a combination of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. Both wines are standouts. Boyd, who serves as assistant winemaker at Waters Winery, is perhaps most excited about his 2008 Grenache. This wine, still in the barrel, comes from Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. This Grenache will provide the backbone for the 2008 Southern Blend. Boyd’s style shows restraint, letting the fruit and the land speak largely for themselves. Wines sampled at 68 degrees with the exception of the Roussanne-Viognier (60 degrees).

Wines:

Score

Name

Notes

$

+

2008 Roussanne-Viognier

Completely clear in color. Banana and pear aromas mark a wine that has yet to completely reveal itself due to the recent bottling. Crisp and clean on the palate. 55% Viognier; 45% Roussanne. 200 cases produced.

$25

*

2007 Southern Blend

A drop dead gorgeous nose with earth and mineral aromas surrounded by violets and a heaping of raspberries. Beautiful acid balance with a focus on the fruit and the land. The oak is there but is far out of the way. A long finish caps it off. 55% Grenache; 35% Syrah; 10% Mourvedre. 400 cases produced.

$35

*

2007 Northern Blend

Dark in color. Beautiful fruit (raspberries), bittersweet chocolate and exhilarating seed aromas on a thrilling nose. An intricate taste that plays effortlessly across the palate. A long, lingering finish that hangs and hangs. 97% Syrah co-fermented with 3% Viognier. 400 cases produced.

$35

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Forgeron Cellars (WWSR 2009)

What follows is an excerpt from the 2009 Walla Walla Spring Release Weekend Report. Download the full report here (Note: Opens .pdf).

Marie-Eve Gilla continues to impress at Forgeron. Her 2004 Boushey Vineyard Syrah was my top wine at Uncorked’s Syrah event in April. This time around it was the 2004 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet that grabbed my attention, leading my friend Lindy to interrupt a conversation we were having with people from the winery to exclaim “Oh my God!” After a minute more of conversation I sampled the wine and also said “Oh my God! You weren’t kidding!” This is a big, bold wine that demands attention. Gilla’s wines display both a feminine and a French touch. The results speak for themselves and demonstrate why Gilla is one of the best winemakers in Walla Walla Valley. NB: Forgeron Cellars 2005 Zinfandel also came in second in our 2008 Reader Survey. All wines sampled at 64 degrees unless otherwise noted.

Wines:

Score

Name

Notes

$

+

2008 Roussanne Columbia Valley

Just a hint of color. A touch of lemon zest and mineral on this bright, tartly acidic wine. An excellent wine to pair with seafood. 100% Roussanne. Crawford, Lonesome Springs, Alder Ridge vineyards. Sampled at 62 degrees.

$23

+

2006 Barbera Columbia Valley

The nose is marked by spice, green pepper, tobacco, and – at times – chocolate. Very tart and puckering on the palate. The alcohol shows through occasionally. 100% Barbera. Sagemoor Vineyard.

$30

+

2003 Syrah Columbia Valley

An anise bomb that is also loaded with cola. Very evenly textured and opens up on the palate. 100% Syrah. Les Collines, Boushey, Milbrandt, Stonetree, and Den Hoed vineyards.

$30

*

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley

Pretty spices and a beautiful earth component on an appealing nose that is also marked by anise, coffee notes, and cola. Taste has a good acid balance. A touch of pencil lead on the finish. 100% Cabernet.

$46

*

2001 Merlot Columbia Valley

A fair amount of browning in the color. Campfire, sarsaparilla, and pain grille show on the nose. Very evenly balanced with just the right mix of fruit and grip along with a beautifully rich texture. Lots of life left on it.

NA

**

2003 Vinfinity Reserve Columbia Valley

A simply gorgeous nose with cherry cola mixed with tobacco, spices, and smoked meat. An exceptionally well-balanced wine.

$46

*

2005 Zinfandel Columbia Valley

Nose jumps out of the glass with spice, eucalyptus, orange blossom, and a faint hint of graphite. Rich and intense on the palate. A long, lingering finish.

$30

**

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills

Almost completely opaque. Violets, tobacco, funk, and earth emerge on the nose. Packs a gigantic punch on the taste. A complete whopper. Almost completely overwhelms all senses and then comes back and sails.

$46

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Comparing Washington Syrah to its Aussie counterpart on price and score

Recently I have been discussing why Washington Syrah does not sell particularly well and what value Syrah are out there. This was inspired by a post on Paul Gregutt’s blog last month. One of the hypotheses is that Washington Syrahs are relatively expensive and that there are not that many value offerings out there. I discussed value offerings in a previous post on a qualitative level. Here I look at how Washington Syrah compares at a more quantitative level. Specifically, I look at how Washington compares to a top Syrah producing region – Australia – in terms of price and rating.

For these purposes, I used the Wine Spectator database. This is not to imply that Wine Spectator is the be-all-end-all of wine reviews. Rather, I used the Spectator database as they are a major publication and have a large database that is easily searchable. Let me also say up front that I am comparing Washington, the state, to Australia, the country, so there are built in differences that affect the validity of the comparison.

In the Spectator database, I compared the score and price (average, median, minimum, maximum) for all Australian and Washington Syrah/Shiraz with a Tasting Date of the previous 12 months. This was done to look at the most recent information as well as to limit the overall dataset.

Overall, average and median scores for Australian and Washington Syrah were comparable. The median price was also comparable. The average price was higher for Australia Shiraz due to a number of expensive wines skewing the average.

Table 1

# of Wines Reviewed

Avg Score (Median)

Av Price

(Median)

Min Price

Max Price

Australia

239

89.94 (90)

$50.77 ($35)

$7

$625

Washington

103

90.20 (90)

$36.60 ($35)

$8

$75

Looking at a distribution of Australian and Washington wines by price and score also shows a number of Australian wines at higher price points (Note: For easier comparison, I have made the axes of the graphs the same. This eliminates one data point, an Australian Shiraz at $625).













Next up I looked at how the two areas compared in terms of overall production levels of the wines that were rated. Two of the main drivers of wine sales are high scores in trade publications and high availability/low cost/good value. In terms of high scores and price, based on the information above, Washington Syrah is doing quite well. Let’s take a look at the comparison by production.

Table 2

Total # wines

Australia (%)

Total # wines from WA (%)

# of Wines

Reviewed

239

103

> 1,000 cases

produced

122

(51%)

21

(20.4%)

> 5,000 cases

produced

71

(29.7%)

6

(5.8%)

> 10,000 cases

produced

33

(13.8%)

3

(2.9%)

Clearly there is a difference in the overall production levels between the two areas. Many of the Australian wines are being made at high production levels whereas the Washington wines are at small production levels. This matches the expectation – Australia is churning out a lot of wine whereas Washington has many small producers. I believe that this low production level is one of the reasons why Washington Syrah has a modest impact on the market outside of Washington.

As I stated previously, I believe as Washington Syrahs continue to rack up high scores and garner attention, the sales will follow. I also expect that more moderate to high production offerings will be created as more interest is generated. In short, I believe that Washington Syrah’s time in the sun is coming.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Trust Cellars (WWSR 2009)

What follows is an excerpt from the 2009 Walla Walla Spring Release Weekend Report. Download the full report here (Note: Opens .pdf).

One of the most exciting parts of this trip to Walla Walla was the stop at Trust Cellars. Winemaker Steve Brooks began making wine in 2005 after leaving his job at CNN. While his initial releases showed great promise, Brooks’ new releases realize that potential and more. Two of these wines – the 2008 Riesling and 2007 Walla Walla Valley Syrah – my friends and I talked about quite literally for the remainder of the weekend. With an exceptional lineup of wines and a wine club with a waiting list, there appears to be no limit to where this winery can go. All wines sampled at 65 degrees unless otherwise noted.


Wines:

Score

Name

Notes

$

**

2008 Riesling Columbia Valley

A beautiful nose with sugared grapefruit and pineapple. Spectacular citrus tastes blend with other fruit flavors. Exceptionally well balanced with mineral and a light sweetness on the taste. 100% Riesling. 38% CS Farms (Wahluke Slope); 30% Pheasant (Yakima); 30% Evergreen (Wahluke Slope); 2% Ancient Lakes. 12% alcohol. 224 cases produced. Sampled at 54 degrees.

$16

+

2008 Rosé of Cab Franc Columbia Valley

Light smoky hints accompany pepper and a slight mustard component. Crisp and clean on the palate. An excellent summer wine. 100% Cab Franc. Bacchus Vineyard. 13.4% alcohol. 151 cases produced. Sampled at 60 degrees. Recommended

$16

*

2007 Syrah Columbia Valley

Dark purple. Blueberry and other light berries along with a hint of wintergreen mark the nose and taste. Two months in the bottle. Unfined and unfiltered. 54% Lewis; 31% Portteus; 13% Sundance vineyards. 14.5% alcohol. 320 cases produced.

$28

**

2007 Syrah Walla Walla Valley

Very dark purple. Light game and floral aromas dance together on the nose. Dry on the palate with beautiful berry tastes. Finish hasn’t entirely come together yet but given a little more bottle age will be absolutely superb. 89% Syrah; 11% Cabernet. 61% Les Collines (Block 50 & 30), 28% Va Piano, 11% Lewis (Cabernet). 14.4% alcohol. 214 cases produced.

$28

*

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

Extremely dark to the point of almost being opaque. A compelling nose marked by pencil lead, light anise, and white pepper. Beautifully integrated tannins. 80% Cabernet; 20% Merlot. 39% Phinny; 20% Baccus; 11% Kelly; 10% Champoux. 20% Conner Lee (Merlot). 13.8% alcohol.

$36

Friday, July 10, 2009

Washington Wine Round-up - July 1st to 7th

A summary of articles from July 1st to 7th on Washington wine.


From around the country…

The Idaho Press-Tribune writes about Alexandria Nicole’s 2006 Quarry Butte Red Table Wine.

The Las Vegas Review Journal looks at Magnificent Wine Co.’s Riesling.

The Kansas City Examiner writes about Syrah with a callout to the Charles Smith Boom Boom! See our virtual taster’s take on this wine here.


From the blogosphere…

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about 8 Bit Vintners.

Wine Peeps spends a weekend in the Red Mountain, Yakima, and Tri-Cities area. They also write about Anna Schafer of àMaurice Cellars.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about a new magazine – Washington Tasting Room slated for its first issue in September.

WINO looks at Ross Andrew’s 2005 Cabernet.

Beyond the Bottle writes about Syncline’s 2007 Subduction White.

Washington Wine does a follow-up on Chardonnay.

Swordfern Wine writes about the movie Merlove and as well as the 2003 Baer Ursa and 2005 Soos Creek Sundance.

A Seattle PI blogger writes about overlook Woodinville wineries.

Slashfood writes about Pinot Grigio with callots to Mercer and Hogue.

The Wine Buyer profiles Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest.

The Wine Cask reviews Columbia’s 2005 Chardonnnay.

Salut! Wine Co. writes about Owen Roe’s 2007 Ex Umbris.

All Wine. All the Time. Writes about Owen Roe.

Wine and Beer of Washington State writes about Coyote Canyon Winery.

Food and Drink Tips writes about Washington wine.

Write for Wine writes about the new Grape Killers Wine Bar.


From the locals…

The Tacoma News Tribune writes about the new WSU Wine Science Center.

The Seattle Times writes about roses.

The Tri-City Herald writes about Alma Terra and Vine Heart Winery.


That’s all folks!

Thursday, July 9, 2009

July Virtual Tasting - Charles Smith 2008 Kung Fu Girl Riesling

In honor of summer, the July Virtual Tasting wine will be our first white wine - the Charles Smith 2008 Kung Fu Girl Riesling. This wine is widely available and retails for $12. In addition to his eponymous label, Smith also produces wines for K Vintners and Magnificent Wine Company.

The tasting will take place on Wednesday July 29th. As usual, I will be opening the bottle about 7pm and posting my thoughts along the way. Please join us in trying this wine and posting your notes.


Previous Virtual Tastings

June Virtual Tasting - Waterbrook Melange Noir 2006


May Virtual Tasting - Charles Smith Boom Boom! Syrah 2007


April Virtual Tasting- Columbia Crest GE Shiraz 2006


March Virtual Tasting - Magnificent Wine Co. House Wine 2006


February Virtual Tasting - Hedges CMS Red 2007

January Virtual Tasting - Columbia Crest GE Merlot 2006

December '08 Virtual Tasting - Ch. Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet 2005

November '08 Virtual Tasting - Russell Creek Tributary Red 2006

October '08 Virtual Tasting- Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet 2006

September '08 Virtual Tasting - Tamarack Firehouse Red 2006

August '08 Virtual Tasting- L'Ecole No. 41 Recess Red 2006

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Value Syrah Continued

Last month Paul Gregutt wrote about why Washington Syrah doesn’t sell particularly well. One of the hypotheses is that there are price issues. The issues are that 1) there are few quality Washington Syrah less than $15 and 2) many Washington Syrah are somewhat expensive. I will take a look at the first issue in this post and the second in a subsequent post.

The importance of the under $15 price point is that 1) wines in this category constitute the bulk of sales and 2) these wines can be considered a gateway to higher priced offerings. I have frequently looked for Washington Syrah in this price point and have by and large been disappointed. So last month I decided to solicit opinions from the blogosphere about Washington Syrah $15 to see other people’s perceptions on what is out there. I also asked about the next category up - $16-$30 to see how Washington fares. I have summarized the responses I received below.

Overall, my impression from an obviously qualitative perspective is that there is a limited amount of decent Washington Syrah under $15. The list readers generated includes 8 wines. Personally, I don’t find the three high production wines (Columbia Crest’s Two Vines, CC Grand Estates and Covey Run) particularly compelling, although they are decent wines for the money. The other wines listed I believe are more so. These wines range from moderate production and distribution (Charles Smith Boom Boom! 5,000 cases) to reasonably limited (Substance Sy, 940 cases).

Due to these production levels, most of these wines most likely have a modest impact on the market outside of Washington. This is significant as two of the main drivers of wine sales are high scores in trade publications and high availability/low cost/good value. In terms of high scores, Washington Syrah is doing quite well (more on this in an upcoming post). In terms of high availability/low cost/good value, Washington does not seem to do as well at least at a qualitative level. Most of the state’s winemakers are small producers (this is one of both the strengths and weaknesses of Washington wine) and therefore are not producing high quantities of wine that receives wide distribution outside of the state and generate additional interest.

Despite this, I believe as Washington Syrahs continue to rack up high scores and garner attention, the sales will follow. Additional moderate production offerings of sufficient quality should also help grease the skids. That said, I expect most of the high scoring offerings from Washington to remain fairly limited in their production and distribution for the foreseeable future.

Next up on this, a look at Washington Syrah in terms of price and quality . Thanks to all who sent in their thoughts on Syrahs in these price categories.

NB: In terms of Syrah in the $30 and under category, Washington seems to do quite well. See the list of reader generated wines below.

Question #1: Tell me what you think are good Washington syrahs that are $15 and under:

  • Barnard Griffin Syrah $13, 3,000 cases produced
  • Charles Smith Boom Boom! Syrah 2007 $15, 5,000 cases produced
  • Columbia Crest Grand Estates Syrah $12, 30,500 cases produced
  • Columbia Crest Two Vines Shiraz $8, 135,000 cases produced
  • Covey Run Syrah $9, 23,000 cases produced
  • Dusted Valley Vintners Boomtown Syrah $15
  • Giant Wine Co. Sinner's Punch 2006 $14
  • Wines of Substance Syrah $14 2007, 940 cases produced


Question #2: Tell me what you think are good Washington syrahs that are $30 and under:

  • Amavi Cellars Syrah $28
  • Amavi Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2006
  • Arbor Crest Syrah $22
  • Barrister Winery Syrah Morrison Lane Vineyard $28
  • Basel Cellars Syrah 2005 $28
  • Chateau Ste Michelle Ethos Syrah 2004 $26
  • Columbia Crest Reserve Syrah 2006 $20
  • Darby The Dark Side Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2006 $25
  • Dusted Valley Stained Tooth $26
  • Dusted Valley Stained Tooth Syrah 2006 $24
  • Dusted Valley Walla Walla Valley $28
  • Five Star Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley $30
  • Gamache Vintners Syrah $30
  • Gilbert Cellars Syrah 2005 and 2006 $25
  • Isenhower Cellars River Beauty Syrah 2006 $24
  • Isenhower Cellars Wild Alfalfa Syrah 2007 Columbia Valley $24
  • K Vintners Syrah Milbrandt Vineyard 2006 $30
  • K Vintners Syrah Motor City Kitty 2006 $25
  • Lantz Cellars Syrah Rattlesnake Hills 2007 $27
  • Lantz Cellars Syrah Yakima Valley $28
  • McCrea Columbia Valley $25
  • Owen Roe Ex Umbris $24
  • Ross Andrew Boushey Vineyard $28
  • Rulo Winery Syrah $20
  • Rulo Winery Syrca $18
  • Snoqualmie Reserve Syrah 2004 $17
  • Stephenson Syrah 2005 and 2006 $28
  • Syncline Columbia Valley Syrah 2006 $22
  • Terra Blanca Syrah $20
  • Trust Cellars Syrah Columbia Valley $28
  • Trust Cellars Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2007 $28
  • Walter Dacon Syrah Columbia Valley C'est Syrah Belle 2006 $30
  • Watermill Reserve Syrah Walla Walla Valley 2005 $28
  • Waters Columbia Valley Minick Vineyard $30
  • William Church Yakima Valley Syrah 2006 $25

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Boudreaux Cellars 2006 Frangiovese Desert Hills Vineyard

Boudreaux Cellars is located in Icicle Creek Canyon in Leavenworth, Washington – one of the state’s most picturesque locations. Winemaker Rob Newsom learned winemaking by picking the brains of some of Washington’s finest, including Gary and Chris Figgins (Leonetti Cellar) and John Abbott (Abeja).

Newsom’s wines all have a distinctive style marked by cola, licorice, and layers of dark fruit. They are bold and intense and benefit from significant time in the cellar or extended decanting. This wine is a Frankenstein mixture of Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese called, appropriately, Frangiovese.


Related articles

See Wine Peeps’ Spotlight on Boudreaux Cellars here.

See Wine Foot’s review of Boudreaux’s 2007 Chardonnay here.

Wines:

Score

Name

Notes

$

*

Boudreaux Cellars Frangiovese Desert Hills Vineyard, Washington State 2006

A classic Boudreaux Cellars nose with light spice, especially white pepper, lying above a dark sea of fruit. A dark, edgy wine loaded with cola as well as black and brown licorice. Dry with a pretty large lick of tannins. Gets quite spicy on the palate as it opens up. Recommend additional bottle aging or extended decanting. Cab Franc; Sangiovese. 13.1% alcohol.

$30

Monday, July 6, 2009

Washington Wine Round-up - June 22nd to 30th

A summary of articles from June 22nd to June 30th on Washington wine.


From around the country…

The New Jersey Star Ledger writes about Washington Riesling.

South Carolina’s The State recommends Gordon Brother’s 2006 Cabernet.

MSNBC writes about summer whites with a callout to the 2008 Kung Fu Girl Riesling.


From the blogosphere…

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Glencorrie (NB: See my focus report on this winery here).

Heather at Walla Walla Wine News lists wineries open for the 4th of July.

Washington Wine writes about Chardonnay.

Beyond the Bottle writes about Milbrandt Vineyards 2007 Traditions Riesling.

Wine Peeps writes about legal issues buying and selling wine and proposes some solutions. They also interview Dave Stephenson, write about Washington Syrah, and take a look at Boudreaux Cellars.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Gifford-Hirlinger’s Woodinville tasting room (NB: See a list of other wineries planning to open tasting rooms in Woodinville here). They also write about the Washington Wine Ambassador program, the re-opening of Columbia Winery, and Challenger Ridge’s tasting room.

Wine Foot writes about Barnard Griffin.

Washington Wine Guy takes a look at Boudreuax Cellars 2004 Cabernet.

Wines and Vines gives some additional information on what happened to the Washington Wine Ambassador program.

Little this, little that…goes touring in Washington wine country. See days two, three, four, five, and bonus materials.

Cheri Walters writes about the Small Lot Co-op.

Seattle Wine Blog writes about Cayuse. They also write about wineries west of Walla Walla.

The Wine Connoisseur does a video blog about Airfield Estates and Basel Cellars.

Washington Beer Blog writes about the on-going battle between Costco and state wholesalers. WINO also writes about this story.


From the locals…

The Seattle Times writes about the recent judgment against Washington wholesalers.

The Bellingham Herald writes about Rattlesnake Hills.

King 5 talks about the battle over the word “chateau.”

The Examiner writes about 8/100 wines sampled with callouts to Charles Smith, Goose Ridge, and Owen Roe. They also write about BBQ wines with callouts to Forgeron Cellars (this would be an under the table wine at my BBQ), Cougar Crest, and Russell Creek. The Examiner also writes about Woodinville wineries.

The Tri-City Herald writes about on-line wine sales. They also write about housing farm workers.

The Yakima Herald writes about Windy Point Vineyards.


Leftovers

The Seattle Times writes about Syncline.


That’s all folks!

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Cadaretta SBS Columbia Valley 2007

Cadaretta Wines is located in Walla Walla. Virginie Bourgue, a native of France, serves as winemaker. Cadaretta currently has an estate vineyard in development in the Walla Walla Valley. 2007 SBS, from vineyards in the Columbia Valley, is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon and was produced in stainless steel tanks.

Note that the 2008 SBS is also currently on the shelves.

Wines:

Score

Name

Notes

$

*

Cadaretta SBS Columbia Valley 2007

Almost completely clear. Nose is marked by pretty spices, light apple, mineral, and a touch of white grapefruit. An engaging texture with piquant acidity. A touch of tropical fruit. Very enjoyable. 73% Sauvignon Blanc (Spring Creek Vineyard, Yakima Valley; Arete Vineyard, Columbia Valley); 27% Semillon (Arete Vineyard). 702 cases produced.

$18

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

2009 Walla Walla Spring Release Weekend Report

What follows is an excerpt from the 2009 Walla Walla Spring Release Weekend Report. Download the full report here (Note: Opens .pdf).


Tasting Summary
3 days, 21 wineries, over 110 wines sampled.

Spring Release is one of the most exciting times in Washington wine country. Throughout Walla Walla Valley, vines are starting new growth and wineries are releasing their latest vintages. New wineries are opening their doors for the first time and are busy preparing for one of Walla Walla’s busiest weekends.

As usual, we tried to divide up the weekend between wineries we had visited a number of times and wineries we had never visited before. In terms of the former, Walla Walla stalwarts Long Shadows, Spring Valley, and K Vintners continued to impress. However, two wineries in particular stood up and demanded attention on this visit. These wineries were Trust Cellars and Forgeron Cellars.

Trust Cellars was started five years ago by Steve Brooks and his wife Lori. After working for twenty years at CNN in Atlanta, Brooks decided it was time for something different. An article in the New York Times about eastern Washington led Brooks to decide it was time for a leap of faith – Trust. In the ensuing years, Brooks learned the wine trade the old fashioned way, taking classes at the Center for Enology and Viticulture in Walla Walla and assisting a number of area wineries. Now releasing his fourth vintage, Brooks is showing why a little faith is not such a bad thing. Trust currently produces a Rosé, a Riesling, a Cabernet, and two Syrahs, one from Columbia Valley and one from Walla Walla Valley. Brooks’ wines are expressive and are distinguished both by diversity and exceptional quality across the lineup. While all are noteworthy, some, such as the 2007 Walla Walla Valley Syrah, are sublime. This wine is composed of Syrah from Les Collines and Va Piano vineyards, two of the finest in the valley. Brook’s addition of 11% Cabernet from Prosser’s Lewis Vineyard gives the wine additional structure and complexity that makes it shine.

Forgeron Cellars was founded in 2001. Marie-Eve Gilla serves as part-owner and winemaker. Forgeron sources grapes from excellent vineyard sources, including Stillwater Creek, Les Collines, Pepper Bridge, Klipsun, and Boushey. While Forgeron uses this fruit to produce a number of standard varietal wines, the winery also produces several less common varietal wines, including an excellent Roussanne and perhaps the best Zinfandel being made in the state. Gilla’s wines are simultaneously bold and understated - a compelling combination of the Old World and New. Of these wines, the 2004 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet was simply transcendent, a wine so good that it literally brought all conversation to a stop.

Wineries we visited for the first time included Le Chateau, Morrison Lane, Garrison Creek Cellars, Grande Ronde Cellars, and Rotie Cellars. Rotie Cellars was celebrating its first release Spring Release weekend. Winemaker Sean Boyd is currently assistant winemaker at Waters Winery. For his inaugural release, Boyd produced three Rhone-style wines. There are two reds - a 2007 Northern Blend that is Syrah co-fermented with Viognier and a 2007 Southern Blend that is composed of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. These are exciting, dynamic wines that offer restrained alcohol levels and terrific fruit. This is wine to seek out – and seek out quickly I might add. As of this writing Rotie Cellars had about a quarter of these wines remaining just two months after release.

In addition to wineries opening their doors for the first time, long established Waterbrook was also celebrating on Spring Release weekend. Here the occasion was the unofficial opening of their new facility west of Walla Walla. The production facility and tasting room were still under construction, so much so that the doors to the production center had just been installed that afternoon. Waterbrook’s new buildings are part of a trend over the last several years of creating large facilities west of Walla Walla. This list now includes Reininger (who is expanding), Three Rivers, Long Shadows, and Cougar Crest. However, in terms of scale, all of these facilities pale in comparison to Waterbrook’s 300,000 case production capacity. The majority of that production will serve Precept Wine Brands other labels, which include Magnificent Wine Company, Apex Cellars, Pine & Post, Pavin & Riley, and Washington Hills among many others.

Another trend that was apparent on this visit was for Walla Walla wineries to open tasting rooms west of the Cascades in Woodinville. In the coming months, look for west side tasting rooms from Dusted Valley Vintners, Tertulia Cellars, Sleight of Hand Cellars, Trust Cellars, and Gifford Hirlinger. I would expect more wineries to do the same in the future. While Walla Walla wineries are heading west, this is no reason not to head east as Walla Walla wine country gets more exciting with each passing year.

CellarTracker - Five years, thirteen million bottles and counting

Back in April Seattle-based CellarTracker celebrated its five year anniversary. Over that time what started as a personal project has blossomed into the premier tool for tracking cellar information and posting user-written tasting notes.

The story goes that in March of 2003 while on sabbatical from his job at Microsoft, Eric LeVine wrote a small software application to manage his wine cellar. His goal was simple – get out of Excel and get on to a web-based tool for personal use. After showing the application to a couple of friends, they convinced him to let them upload information about their cellars. Over the next several months the group perused each others’ on-line collections and tasting notes. Eric quickly realized that doing so was not just useful, it was a whole lot of fun. LeVine spent the next series of months creating an application for wider use. On April 24th 2004, CellarTracker was born. The rest, as they say, is history.

As of this writing, CellarTracker boasts over 80,000 members, thirteen million bottles catalogued or consumed, and, perhaps most strikingly, almost 950,000 user written tasting notes. CellarTracker is rich with functionality. As you would expect, the application allows users to track their cellar on-line as well as slice and dice their collection by producer, vintage, varietal, and a large number of other fields. It allows users to enter personal tasting notes as well as rate wines. The application even supports barcode functionality where users can label their wines and accurately track what is in the cellar. LeVine has set up a system for himself whereby when he removes a wine from his cellar, the barcode gets scanned and the information gets sent to Twitter. His friends know what wine he is going to drink before he has the first sip.

Of its many features, it is the user tasting notes and its extensive database that distinguishes CellarTracker from its peers. The tasting notes provide a cornucopia of information. CellarTracker members (Note: CellarTracker use is free of charge, relying on voluntary payments from its members) may post notes on wines they have sampled. On any given day, more than 1,100 wine notes are posted. A search for a randomly selected wine – Long Shadows 2005 Pirouette – reveals 15 tasting notes with an average user rating of 91.9 points. The notes were written between February, 2008 and May, 2009. CellarTracker members have 531 bottles of this wine in their cellars.

What does this information mean to you? First it means that you can join a community of wine lovers, see what they are drinking and how they are enjoying the wine. Secondly you can use this information to inform purchasing and drinking decisions. Is it a wine good? What is the style? Is it at its peak? Is it past its peak? All this and more can be found within the CellarTracker notes.

The user tasting notes on CellarTracker are not intended to be a substitute for professional reviews. Indeed the site provides the ability to link to reviews from Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar as a premium feature. However, there are advantages that CellarTracker tasting notes offer that professional reviews cannot. The main one is that CellarTracker reviews are much more dynamic. Whereas most of the major publications can only take a look at a wine once, give it a score, and move on, CellarTracker users can see reviews from when a wine is first released to years down the road, sometimes by the same person. Additionally, the user reviews can cover much more ground than most publications can ever hope to given that there is a world full of consumers instead of a single person dedicated to an area. While the reviews are not generally from professionals, the abundance of reviews and the ability to key in on particular users whose tastes are similar to your own helps to compensate for this.

Given that LeVine is a Seattle resident and that Washington is wine country, CellarTracker’s users include a significant number of Washingtonians and people who consume Washington wine. More than 285,000 bottles of Washington wine have been catalogued or consumed in the CellarTracker database, representing more than 17,000 individual wines. There are over 31,000 Washington wine tasting notes that have been written in the last five years. To emphasize how dynamic these tasting notes are compared to professional reviews, in the thirty plus years Wine Spectator has been reviewing Washington wine, they have a total of 5,907 wine reviews. While CellarTracker has an abundance of Washington wine in the database, LeVine’s personal collection is more focused on the wines of Bordeaux and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. He states that Betz Family Winery and Cadence are among his favorites from Washington.

In the next several months, CellarTracker will be undergoing two major changes. The first is a user interface overhaul. Since its inception, CellarTracker has been focused mainly on functionality – LeVine envisioned the software as a “productivity tool” – rather than looks and usability. By LeVine’s own admission, the application looks dated by today’s standards and can be somewhat intimidating to use. For the UI design, LeVine has partnered with Seattle-based Fellswoop. The redesign has been a major undertaking, done at considerable expense, and has included user experience testing. The redesigned UI will allow users to more easily access current functionality as well as provide a wealth of new functionality, such as expanded social networking capabilities.

The second major change coming this summer is CellarTracker’s partnership with Vinfolio Marketplace, an on-line marketplace for buying and selling privately owned wines. Collectively CellarTracker and Vinfolio have 12 million bottles in user’s cellars worth over $2 billion, including many rare and hard to find wines. This partnership will allow CellarTracker members to anonymously list bottles they wish to sell and look at community member’s available bottles. Once a deal is struck, the seller ships the bottle to Vinfolio who verifies it and sends it along to the purchaser. This capability will mark a radical expansion of CellarTracker’s functionality.

Last month I sat down for coffee with LeVine and talked about CellarTracker’s history and the upcoming changes. This included a look at the new design which currently includes both working software and screenshot mockups (LeVine is coding the application as you read this).

The redesigned application is nothing short of breathtaking. Tasks that have previously been somewhat onerous will become easy, such as adding multiple new items to a cellar. Search capabilities are expanded. Users will be able to more easily see and interact with other users, such as the ability to comment on other user’s comments. The redesigned application also includes a sexy feature where users can select from a list of descriptors to compose tasting notes on the fly. For those intimidated by providing numerical scores to a wine, there is a simple thumbs up/thumbs down type of functionality. In short, the redesigned CellarTracker will be much easier to use and even more feature rich for their two main types of users – those who use it to track their cellars and those who use it to review tasting notes.

LeVine is understandably excited about the upcoming changes, and he has ambitious plans for growing the CellarTracker community in the coming years. Indeed, the changes are cause for excitement. I came away from the demonstration of the redesigned UI nothing short of exhilarated. As with any major software change, some long time users of CellarTracker may find the adjustment difficult. LeVine plans to have both the new and existing applications pointed toward the CellarTracker database for the first few months to help ease the transition

As CellarTracker rolls out its new user interface and marketplace functionality over the coming months, the community of users will no doubt continue to expand and morph. While it is always difficult to say what direction any internet application will take, one thing is clear. CellarTracker will continue to have an enormous impact on the wine industry for many years to come.


Note: Levine will be speaking in Georgetown, WA today on entrepreneurship. Read more about this event here.

Monday, June 29, 2009

Retrospective - 2001 DeLille Chaleur Estate

Chaleur Estate is one of the flagship wines of Delille Cellars, a Woodinville, Washington winery. This wine is a cabernet-focused Bordeaux blend with the majority of its fruit coming from Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain. The winery’s website lists the 2001 vintage of this wine as a “Drink” wine, and I would concur. While the 2001 Chaleur Estate is drinking well and appears to have some time left, I do not see it getting any better than it is at present.

Wines:

Score

Name

Notes

$

*

Delille Cellars Chaleur Estate 2001

Light in color and very cloudy. Lots of pencil lead on the nose along with wet stone, and black licorice. Richly textured, coating the palate with dark fruit and abundant pencil lead. 63% Cabernet; 26% Merlot; 9% Cab Franc; 2% Petit Verdot. Predominantly Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun vineyards. 1,150 cases produced.

$60

Friday, June 26, 2009

Trust Cellars at Fine Wine & Cigars in Redmond

It is uncommon for me to bring attention to individual winery events. However, in this case, I am making an exception. Steve Brooks, owner and winemaker at Walla Walla's Trust Cellars, will be pouring tonight at Fine Wine & Cigars in Redmond. You may recall that Trust was my "winery of the weekend" during this year's Walla Walla Spring Release. Brooks' current releases are all standouts and include:
  • 2008 Rose of Cabernet Franc
  • 2008 Columbia Valley Riesling
  • 2007 Columbia Valley Syrah
  • 2007 Walla Walla Valley Syrah
  • 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

If you have the time, check them out. If you don't have the time, make it. These wines are not to be missed. Brooks will be pouring from 4-8pm.

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Ch Ste Michelle-Dr. Loosen Riesling receives highest ever Spectator score for a Washington wine

The good news. The 2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle-Dr. Loosen Riesling Columbia Valley Eroica Single Berry Select has received a 98 point rating from Wine Spectator. This score was published in the June 24th edition of Wine Spectator Insider. The 98 point score matches the highest Wine Spectator score received for a Washington wine. A 98 point score was previously given to the 2000 vintage of this same wine. It is also matches the highest score received in Wine Spectator for an American Riesling.

The bad news. A 375ml bottle of this dessert wine will run you $200.

Read more about this wine here.

Your consolation prize? For 1/4 the price, the 2005 Poet's Leap Botrytis Riesling. Check it out here.

I know. You are thinking you are supposed to feel better about that 1/4 price for that 1/2 bottle. Truly though, it's like saving money.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

June Virtual Tasting 2006 Waterbrook Melange Noir

This month's Virtual Tasting is tonight and is the 2006 Waterbrook Melange Noir. As usual, I will be opening the wine about 7pm and updating this post with my notes along the way. Please join us in trying this wine and posting your notes. New for this month, you can check at the bottom of the post whether you liked the wine or not. I have also included a downloadable tasting note sheet in case you are getting friends together for the tasting. The "Taste" section of the sheet contains a profile template that Sagelands Vineyard uses for their wines. See an example from their site with this filled out here.

Waterbrook is the flagship winery of Precept Wine Brands. The winery was founded in 1984 and produces approximately 70,000 cases annually.

Note: The 2006 vintage is a fairly new release so some outside the state may find the 2005 on the shelves.

7:15 Update: Okay folks the bottle is cracked. Composite cork, very lightly colored. Wine is at 66 degrees.

7:30 Update: Fairly light in color. On the nose, initially some milk chocolate which quickly fades. A whiff of anise, black currant, and light herbal notes.

7:45 Update: As the wine opens cedar starts to show through on the nose and the anise becomes more predominant. Temperature of the wine has gone way up (it's about 110 degrees in the place I'm drinking the wine) so waiting for it to cool back down to comment on the taste.

8:00 Update: Okay, the wine has cooled down a bit. Overall I was fairly surprised by the taste. Initially it seemed quite sharp and at the same time flat which I attributed to the temperature. However, this has persisted as the wine has cooled down. The sharpness is particularly on the back and the sides of the palate. Also seems to be lacking in the middle, as if there is a bit of a hole. I say that I was surprised because I really liked the nose quite a bit. Taste seems quite disconnected from it.

8:15pm Update: Some background information about the wine. An interesting blend of varietals: 28% Cabernet Franc, 21% Syrah, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Sangiovese, 14% Merlot, 1% Tempranillo. 13.7% alcohol. 11,930 cases produced.

Wine Spectator says: 89 points. Crisp in texture and beautifully focused to show its rose petal-accented blackberry and cherry flavors, finishing firm and persistent. Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and others. Best from 2009 through 2013. 11,930 cases made. –HS

Can't say that I really get many of the points in there.

Final Update 9:00pm: Overall, as you might suspect, I'm going to give this wine a ".", or dot in my system. I enjoyed the nose but found the taste surprisingly flat. Disappointing as previous vintages have been a go-to value wine. BTW, I bought the wine for $12 at Pete's.

From Wine Enthusiast:
Not as forward and lush as the appealing 2005, this all-purpose red, tasted a few months prior to its official release, is still knitting the components together. What is in place is plenty of tart, ripe raspberry fruit, precise and clean, and a soft backdrop of lightly chocolaty tannins. - P.G. (8/1/2008) - 87 points

From CellarTracker, average rating 84.6points, median 88 points from 5 tasting notes.

Thanks to everyone who participated in the tasting. Feel free to keep the comments coming and I will respond, but for now, I am moving on to another bottle.

11:00pm Final Final Update (see clarification from 6/25): Some final final thoughts. Comparing this wine to the 2005 Meritage...The 2005 blend was a Bordeaux blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Petit Verdot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, and 10% Malbec. 13.7% alcohol. 999 cases produced. So all around, a completely different wine. The 2006 Melange Noir is more of a kitchen sink blend compared to the 2005 Meritage. The branding is also different. My assumption was that Waterbrook was simply rebranding this wine. However, given the differences in composition, it makes me wonder if there will be some different incarnation of the Meritage with the same or different name at the same or different price point. I will let you know if I find out more about Waterbrook's plans around this. Also, remember that you can check at the bottom of the post whether you liked this wine or not.

If you have suggestions for the July Virtual Tasting, please send them along.

6/25 Update: Okay, this is a fairly twisted web I have woven. I received confirmation from folks at Waterbrook that they will have both a 2006 Melange Noir AND a 2006 Meritage. My mistake in thinking this a was rebranding of the Meritage. Part of the issue is that they changed the label this year and added "Noir" to the Melange. The Melange has always been the name of the value priced wine. The Meritage is a higher end wine at a $28 price point. Apologies for the confusion. So disregard my note from 11 last night regarding the composition of the 2005 Melange as that was for the Meritage. The 2005 Melange was composed of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Don't have information on the percent composition but will add it if I find it. 16,522 cases were produced (more than for the 2006).

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Uncorked's Debuts and Discoveries

Seattle Uncorked will be hosting Debuts and Discoveries at the Seattle Aquarium on Thursday June 25th from 6:30-9:00pm. Tickets are $40. This event features over 50 wineries wineries in the first 3-4 years of their first release. Read more about this event here.

I am excited for this event as there are a number of wineries I have not tried yet. A list of participating wineries is below. Perhaps in there is Washington's next top producer.

Check out posts on Uncorked's recent Rose event and Syrah event.

2009 Sponsor Wineries

Airfield Estates
Alma Terra
Anton Ville Winery
Artisanal Wine Cellars
Bella Terrazza Vineyards
Big Smooth
Cedergreen Cellars
Chateau Rollat Winery
Cultura

DAMA Wines

Darby Winery
Domaine Pouillon
Donna Maria
Dusty Cellars

Elsom Cellars
Esther Bricques Winery
Falling Rain Cellars
Foxy Roxy Wines
Gard Vintners
Gilbert Cellars
Hollywood Hill Vineyards
Illusion Wine

Jacob Williams Winery
Lantz Cellars

Legoe Bay Winery
Lodmell Cellars
Maison Bleue Winery
Memaloose/McCormick Family Vineyards

Martinez & Martinez
Michael Florentino Cellars
Mercer Estates
Naches Heights Vineyards

Northwest Cellars
Olsen Estates
Otis Kenyon Wines
Pacific Rim
Palouse Cellars
Parejas Cellars
Passion Vineyards
Patterson Cellars
Rotie Cellars
Seia Wines

Shady Grove Winery
Skylite Cellars
Smasne Cellars
Sodo Vino
Stella Fino Winery
Stomani Cellars
Sweet Valley Wines
Tasawik Vineyards
Thirsty Pagans Wine Co.
Tiger Mountain Winery
Trust
Upland Estates
Whisper Ridge Winery
Zero One Vintners


Washington Wine Round-up - June 15th to 21st

A summary of articles from June 15th to June 21st on Washington wine.

From around the world…

London’s Legal Week writes about Wilridge Winery.


From around the country…

The San Francisco Chronicle recommends some picnic wines with a callout to Black Box Wines 2008 Columbia Valley Riesling.

The Cleveland Plain Dealer writes about Charles and Charles Rose 2008, a joint venture between Charles Bieler and Charles Smith.


From the blogosphere…

WINO magazine writes about Betz Family Wines’ 2006 La Côte

Rousse Syrah. They also write about tweeting at the Seattle Wine Awards.

Swordfern Wines writes about Pomum’s 2006 Tinto.

Paul Gregutt writes about Chelan wines on the north shore and the south. He also writes about AlmaTerra.

Washington Wine writes about Columba Crest’s Vineyard 10 wines.

Wine Peeps does a Spotlight piece on Townshend Cellar.

Through the Walla Walla Grapevine writes about Sweet Valley Wines.

Woodinville Wine Update writes about Alder Ridge opening a tasting room in Woodinville.

NW Wine and Real Estate writes about Carmenere.

Wine Foot writes about the Auction for Washington Wine.

Shona at WineCHATr writes about the Seattle Wine Awards.

Brazenly Lucid Wines writes about some west side wines.


From the locals…

The Tacoma News Tribune writes about Dusted Valley opening a tasting room in Woodinville. See my post on other wineries planning to do the same here.

The News Tribune also writes about a possible reconsideration on discontinuing Stimson Estate Cellars.

The Yakima Herald writes about the annual Sunshine and Wine event.

The Everett Herald writes about the Evergreen State Fair’s first wine competition.

The Bellingham Herald (I’m starting to sense a them here) writes about Zillah area wineries.

The Examiner.com writes about Washington wine.

That’s all folks!

Monday, June 22, 2009

Five Under Fifteen - June

Reminder that this month's Virtual Tasting will take on Wednesday. Read more about it here.

In tough times, we continue the search for good, inexpensive wines.

Sleight of Hand Cellars is located in Walla Walla, Washington. Trey Busch, who co-owns the winery with Sandy and Jerry Solomon, serves as winemaker. Busch previously worked in this capacity at Basel Cellars. Sleight of Hand, which gets its name from a Pearl Jam song, was launched in 2007. Each of SOH’s wines have a magic-name theme. An audiophile, Busch spins discs at the winery’s downtown Walla Walla tasting room. Sleight of Hand will be opening a tasting room in Woodinville in the near future.

Barnard Griffin was founded in 1983 by Rob Griffin and Deborah Barnard. Winemaker Rob Griffin came to Washington in 1977, against the advice of his UC Davis professors who considered Washington’s climate too cool for wine grapes, and began making wine at Preston Winery. He got off to a quick start, winning a Best of Show award for his 1977 Chardonnay. After starting Barnard Griffin, he also served as winemaker for Hogue Cellars from 1984 to 1991. Barnard Griffin has two tiers of wine, their Tulip Series which represents their value wines, and their reserve series. The winery currently produces 75,000 cases annually, reasonably large by Washington’s standards. Barnard Griffin’s tasting room is located in Richland, Washington.

Skylite Cellars is a Walla Walla Valley venture. The winery is located west of town. Skylite Cellars also has a downtown tasting room. Tom and Cheryl Hodgins are the owners. Robert Smasne of Smasne Cellars serves as winemaker with Greg Matiko assisting.

Thurston Wolfe Winery makes a number of wines from varietals uncommon in Washington, including Primitivo (a predecessor to Zinfandel), Tempranillo, Petit Syrah, and Zinfandel. Winemaker Wade Wolfe sources his grapes from vineyards located throughout the state, believing that this allows for the best pairing of varietal to terroir. The winery’s Red Table Wine is fascinating kitchen sink blend of Syrah, Primitivo, Lemberger, Petit Syrah, and Zinfandel. The 2007 vintage of this wine is due to be released on July 1st and is predominantly Primitivo.

Columbia Crest is one of Washington’s largest wine producers. I was intrigued to see that their current Two Vines (the winery’s entry level tier) Shiraz was from 2005.




If you have favorite Washington wines under $15, send them along and I will check them out.


Wines:

Score

Name

Notes

$

+

Sleight of Hand ‘The Curtain Call’ Late Harvest Gewurztraminer 2008

Lots of honeydew, sugared lemon, and mineral on the nose. Clean on the taste and pulls off being sweet without being heavy. Biscuit Ridge Vineyard.

Purchased from the winery for $15.

$15

+

Barnard Griffin Syrah Columbia Valley 2007

Dark in color. Brambly fruit mixes with clove, vanilla and bright berries. The fruit and the oak duke it out a bit on the nose. Packs a fruit-weighted punch on the palate. If you like fruit bombs and don’t mind a decent amount of barrel influence, this is a wine for you. 14.2% alcohol.

Purchased at Trader Joes for $13

$13

+

Skylite Cellars Big Red Hiney Columbia Valley 2005

Lightly colored. Lots of tobacco and bright cherry on the nose and taste. A bit tart on the palate but overall a good value.

Purchased from the winery for $15.

$15

.

Thurston Wolfe Doctor Wolf’s Family Red Table Wine Washington State 2006

Lots of smoke, dark, rich cherry, and bright fruit along with a touch of dust on an engaging nose. Dry, very tart and puckering on the palate with bracing acidity. 39% Syrah; 20% Primitivo; 19% Lemberger; 12% Petite Syrah (that “e” is not from me); 10% Zinfandel.15% alcohol.

Purchased at Pete’s Bellevue for $13

$15

.

Columbia Crest Two Vines Shiraz Washington State 2005

Nose is a bit off-putting with sulfur aromas along with candied fruit and a touch of earth. Taste delivers with lots of fruit and spice and a fair amount of weight. Straightforward but would be a good wine for the money except for the nose. Perhaps a bottle issue.13.5% alcohol. 135,000 cases produced.

Purchased at Pete’s Bellevue for $7

$8

Friday, June 19, 2009

Focus: Glencorrie

What follows is a Focus report on Glencorrie. Read a .pdf version of this report here. See other Focus reports here.


Since the late 1990s, the Washington wine industry has seen extraordinary growth. At that time, the state’s wineries numbered one hundred and sixty. Earlier this year, Washington licensed its 600th winery (Bridge Press Cellars in Spokane), marking a three hundred percent increase. Of Washington’s eleven American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), perhaps no area has seen as great a growth as the Walla Walla Valley.

At the beginning of 1995, the Walla Walla Valley had a total of seven bonded wineries. Almost fifteen years later that number stands at over ninety with many more in the works. Every trip to the valley it seems a new winery is opening its doors. A new sign stands by the side of the road that reads ‘Open’ – a realization of someone’s dream and the start of something new and exciting.

On June 5th that winery was Glencorrie which timed its opening with the annual Vintage Walla Walla weekend. Glencorrie is named after the corries or cirques that formed as a result of the Missoula floods that shaped modern day eastern Washington. The winery is owned by brothers Ronn and Dean Coldiron. Ronn’s interest in wine dates back almost fifteen years. However, the roots that would lead to Glencorrie were planted – literally and figuratively - in 2002 when Ronn put in 150 vines of Cabernet, Merlot, and Zinfandel (50 each) on family property in California. Believing that wine is made in the vineyard, Ronn worked to learn viticulture, irrigating, pruning, and bud grafting his vines and making wine from the resulting fruit.

Ronn knew as soon as he planted his test vines that he wanted to establish a vineyard and a winery. Having spent most of his life in California, he had been inspired by reading the histories of the Inglenook and BV wineries in Rutherford. One day while reading a passage in a book in Pike Place Market where California’s Julio Gallo referred to Washington as ‘acid country’, the idea of starting a vineyard in Washington took shape. After further research revealed that Washington had warmer days and cooler nights than Rutherford, the decision was made.

The Coldirons’ parents had grown up on Gray’s Harbor in Hoquiam and Aberdeen, so establishing a family vineyard on the other end of Route 12 in the Walla Walla Valley seemed a natural choice. Finding the right spot however was not so easy. The brothers spent three years searching the valley for the proper location to grow Bordeaux varietals. With a doctorate in geology, Ronn knew that selecting the right site was critical to the winery’s future. Ronn and Dean wanted an area with warm daytime temperatures and cool nighttime temperatures to help preserve the grapes’ natural acidity. Ronn states “The acid was essential to my search because I wanted to make wines that would complement a good meal, not smother it.” They also wanted a site with moderate clay content so the soil would dry slowly and they would be able to adjust the late season water stress to maximize fruit quality. In October of 2006, the Coldirons found a small, nine acre site west of a Walla Walla. This site is not only about three percent warmer than Ronn’s beloved Rutherford it also has slightly warmer days and cooler nights than the Walla Walla Valley average. In April of this year they planted a test vineyard to determine which varietals will be best suited to the location.

For their inaugural releases, the Coldirons commissioned Charlie Hoppes, owner and winemaker at Fidelitas, to make their wines. Hoppes, who in May of this year planted an estate vineyard of his own on Red Mountain, brings twenty years of winemaking experience to the venture. Hoppes had been recommended to the Coldirons by Norm McKibben, co-owner of famed Walla Walla vineyards Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills, and Les Collines. Ronn was impressed by Hoppes’ hands off approach to winemaking. Hoppes will continue to make the Columbia Valley wines in the future. Ronn will assume winemaking responsibilities for the Walla Walla cabernets once he is confident he can create the style he and his brother have commissioned Hoppes to produce. Ronn says “The wine style can be summed up by stating that wine is a food and should be made to compliment a good meal. If I can accomplish this I’ll be a happy guy.” Ronn’s long-term goal is to establish at the Walla Walla site the same type of identity and quality the fabled Rutherford wineries have.

The Glencorrie wines are composed of fruit from a number of excellent vineyard sources from the Columbia and Walla Walla valleys, including Stillwater Creek, Gamache, Weinbau, and Dwelley. In choosing fruit sources, the Coldirons sought vineyards that mirrored what they were looking for in their Walla Walla site. They also focused on vineyards that were family-owned with long-tenured vineyard managers, believing that knowledge of the land is paramount. The Coldirons hope to transition to using their estate vineyard for the Walla Walla wines as the vineyard bears fruit.

Glencorrie currently offers three red wines, all from the 2006 vintage. The first is a Columbia Valley Cabernet which is 100% Cabernet sourced from Stillwater Creek (75%) and Gamache (25%) vineyards. The second is a Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon composed of 60% cabernet from Windrow Vineyard and 40% from Dwelley Vineyard. The third is a red blend called Cuvee “Marquis”, the maiden name of the Coldiron’s mother. This wine is 70% Cabernet (Weinbau, Stillwater Creek, and Gamache Vineyards); 20% Merlot (Stillwater Creek); and 10% Malbec (Goose Ridge Vineyard). Each of Glencorrie’s wines is elegantly made, expresses the area it comes from, and expertly straddles the line between fruit expression and barrel influence. While noticeably distinct, fans of Hoppes’ Fidelitas wines will recognize his deft touch.

While the number of Washington wineries is increasing and many existing wineries are growing in size, the Coldirons are looking to stay small. Glencorrie produced 645 cases for the 2006 vintage, and the Coldirons look to remain at this level. The winery’s website even gives an up to the moment count of the number of remaining cases, reading “642 of 645 cases from the 2006 vintage remain.” With the new winery open and a strong first vintage, that number seems sure to quickly dwindle.


See a post on Glencorrie at Through the Walla Walla Grapevine here.


Wines:

Score

Name

Notes

$

+

Glencorrie Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2006

A pretty nose with a touch of earth, pepper, and some light oak notes. Up front on the palate. The wine accelerates and pours around the edges leaving a slight gap in the middle. Lots of fruit on a very enjoyable wine. 100% Cabernet (75% Stillwater Creek, 25% Gamache Vineyards). 14.7% alcohol. 208 cases produced.

$35

*

Glencorrie Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2006

Light in color. An engaging nose with cocoa powder, chocolate, oak notes, and light herbal notes. An elegant wine that lightly dances on the palate. Opens up nicely. 100% Cabernet (60% Windrow; 40% Dwelley). 14.2% alcohol. 240 cases produced.


$40

*

Glencorrie Cuvee Marquis Columbia Valley 2006

Light cocoa powder, pepper, black cherry, and very, very light herbal qualities. Opens up, expands, and lingers. A finish that holds on and evolves with fruit, spice, and light herbal notes. An elegant, beautifully done wine. 70% Cabernet (Weinbau, Stillwater Creek, Gamache vineyards); 20% Merlot (Stillwater Creek); 10% Malbec (Goose Ridge Vineyard). 14.7% alcohol. 192 cases produced.

$45